Stop! Now imagine the sound of screeching brakes or maybe a record needle coming off vinyl in a scratchy, fast way. That first imagining wasn't all off-beam, but the idea that we might be the only crazy folks just mad enough to go city-sightseeing in possibly Europe's most photogenic capital at Christmas? Unh-unh. In fact, I'm pretty sure half of Asia was there with us, but never mind, it was still fantastic.
Of course, for a good visitor experience, you'll want to allow for wandering time. You know, those hours when you walk out of your hotel with only a vague idea of where you might like to end up and just see where your feet take you. You'll see so many beautiful Art Nouveau buildings and interesting details, that after a while you'll probably stop saying, "Look at that one!", because really, they're almost all incredible.
Much of the city was built at the beginning of the 20th century, when architectural decoration was the name of the game, so for building buffs like me, there's plenty to catch your eye and just enjoy. But where to go when you're ready to see stuff?
Of course, you'll go to Charles Bridge – everyone does – but it doesn't have to be your first stop. In fact, we ended up on Svatopluk Čech Bridge, which is wonderfully decorated with suns on top of lampposts and angel statues at all four corners. Truthfully, this was my favourite Prague bridge for all its wonderful details and – bonus – it's not crowded. In fact, there's hardly anyone on it at all.
You'll also go to Old Town Square. We couldn't seem to get away from it – whenever we turned a corner, it seemed we were heading back toward it. Which is fine. It's a lovely place and filled at Christmas with the biggest of the twinkly markets, selling Gluhwein (mulled wine), decorations, sausages, woolley novelty hats, trdelník (aka tunnel cake), thick socks and, helpfully, providing a viewing platform so you can take those all-important selfies with the church behind you. It's also where you'll find the Astronomical Clock, which was deemed so beautiful and perfect that its maker had his eyes gouged out so he couldn't make another. 
The best thing we did was get to grips with the trams, which isn't hard to do, especially if you've got Google maps on your phone. Put in where you're going, then let it do the hard work for you of showing which tram to get from where. They're cheap for single journeys, but we splashed out on a Prague Card (not cheap at €60), but meant we could hop on and off any form of transport at will, and also got free or discounted entry at most of the sights. 
In winter the sun sets early (obvs), but this isn't a bad thing. Just make sure you wrap up warm and then hop a tram to the bottom of Petrin Hill on the Castle side of the Vlatava river. From here you board the funicular (always a fun way to travel) up. You can get off halfway, where there's a restaurant, or simply stay on to the top. Here you'll find three fabulous things. First, Petrin Tower, a one-fifth size Eiffel Tower built shortly after the Paris original. Of course, you can climb the steps to the pinnacle or be lazy like us and go into the café at the base for simply the best hot chocolate of your life. So thick a spoon practically stands up in it and so chocolatey it ruins for you forever.
Next, visit the Mirror Maze, built for an exhibition in 1926 and still tons of fun. Plus, it's housed in a very sweet castle-like building (free with your Prague Card!).Last, but not at all least, the Observatory, where we found incredibly enthusiastic staff who were more than happy to move the telescopes and refocus them so we could have a peek at the tree in Old Town Square. Ah, there it is again...
Another day, hop on a bus to the top of Castle Hill. You'll have to do a little walking, but as it's all downhill it's pretty easy. Your Prague Card will get you into most of the buildings here for free and if it's winter, you'll be glad to get inside, as it can be bitter. When you've finished, leave the hoards behind and walk down past the little vineyard down into the Little Quarter, where more beautiful houses and palaces, many open to the public, await. There's a little park here next to the river, called the Kampa, where you'll find Werich Villa. It's home to a collection of modern art and, also, a very popular cosy cafe, which makes a nice stop.
Here is where I tried white hot chocolate for the first and, most definitely, last time. I was so intriqued by the idea of it, but the reality was so sweet it practically went over the top of the arc and into sour again. No thank you. But pleased to have given it a go. I also had a Prague bun: a sweet thing wtih a rich, creme anglais-type gush inside. Mostly what made this such a highlight was the local Praguers, all clearly enjoying the treat of meeting there to eat and talk. Outside in the Kampa another local tradition was going on: Even in the freezing cold, families and friends were meeting for stand-up picnics. Plastic containers of sweet treats and sandwiches, plus Thermoses of Gluhwein, with dogs and children running about. Hardy folk!
Finally, a dinner suggestion: The Eatery, in the Holesovice area. A tram ride, but an easy one, to get to this off-the-beaten track (for now) residential area that is slowly emerging as Prague's hipper neighbourhood. There's a good vegetarian selection, as well as meat and fish; you can sit at the bar and watch them cook while you eat or have a table; and it's all quite delicious at a very reasonable price - think €€, which is good for Prague.Another night, take one of the dinner cruises along the Vlatava. Yes, a tourist thing to do, but still, a nice way to see the city from the water and eat at the same time.
